Chasing conditions and my Solo BASE jump off the Eiger

The Eiger is an extreme playground that I’ll keep on returning to. From the history of the North face, hard rock climbs, steep skiing and BASE jumping, it has it all. Over time people have pushed the boundaries of these sports on the Eiger, and throughout their history the mountain has also changed. The original ascent was done at the height of summer, while now spring is your best chance to climb the north face. Even now prime conditions can be hard to find. When we reached the summit from the 1938 route we had been on the face with 7 other teams all making the most of the rare, opportune conditions.

Though the Eiger has a few wingsuit exit points, the “mushroom” is by far the most iconic. A pillar of rock separated from the North face. As soon as the snow is clear and the wind is favorable BASE jumpers head up to the mushroom. This year was different. A notice from the local authorities banned access to the west flank, due to the unstable serac. Climate change making the passage to dangerous for us to pass under the hanging ice on the west flank.

With the ban now lifted I set my aim on another way to test myself on the Eiger, I had climbed up, wingsuited off, now I want to ski off. My first attempt was in December, the dusting of snow had no time to settle before the high altitude winds scoured the rock. It would take me two more visits to even find remotely enough snow to skiBASE off the Eiger.

16th Feb 2017

We entered Lauterbrunen at 6am and there was snow on the valley floor. It bodes well for snow up at altitude, as long as the wind hasn’t whipped it off the face. The three of us start from the Eigergletscher station. Each step is a deep lunge with snow up to our knees, breaking the crust and plunging into the soft layer below. At the first band of rock my two friends who have come to help decided to return back for beers and rossti. The sun had started to warm up the face. Descending in the soft snow on wet rock is not a position they wanted to be in. 4 hours later on the exit I knew they made a good decision.

I continue, I wasn’t going to return until all my “if, buts and maybes” were answered. Maybe there is an exit point just after the fixed ropes, what if the perfect jump is waiting for me. Every new horizon gave me a chance to look for a new exit, one after another of failed attempts I would think “one more try,” but the further I went, the higher I climbed the more committed and determined I became. I climbed the fixed ropes frozen into position and traversed to the north face where I was sure I would find an exit. There was enough height but not enough snow. There was no way I was going to be able to ski off this mountain. The position I had got myself into hit me. I immediately weighed up my options. To go back down would be too dangerous, and take too long. Wet snow, loose rock and the frozen fixed ropes would mean I couldn’t abseil back down. I was stuck on an exit that in any other situation I could have jumped, but now I had skis with me.

Determination got the better of me and I found myself in a position where my best and safest option off the mountain was to jump. Never a good position to be in. I calculated the risks, weighed up the options and improvised with what I had. I used  a sling to attach the skis horizontally to my chest strap. Pushed away from the cliffs and threw my pilot chute. In free-fall I controlled the skis with my hand. The canopy opened, throwing my legs forward and with it the skis into the air. As it was happening I was expecting the result to be a bloody nose or a missing tooth, but my helmet took the brunt. The canopy opened on heading, no injuries and I was off the mountain. Hindsight and perspective may change your views on past decisions. But I got myself out of a situation that I put myself into and when you’re on a mountain alone I think that’s an important skill to have.

Thanks to Mountain Hardwear for supporting me on this project.