Attempt 1
On route to the Dolomites we took a short detour to the Italian side of the Matterhorn. The weather and conditions gave us slight hope of a quick ascent and even quicker descent with our wingsuits. Covid restrictions meant that the hut was now booked at full capacity even this late in the season. We started from the valley floor and went for the summit in one continuous push.
We started at 2am, at around 4 we started to lose the trail, having to downclimb and reach the col before the hut. At this point we could see headtorches leaving the hut and soon out of site.
Ed and I reached the summit at about 10am, feeling physically and mentally strong. The whole climb was shielded by the wind but as soon as we hit the summit ridge we knew there was little chance of jumping. Gusts of 20kmph chilled us, the prayer flags whipped around the summit cross, but it was worth looking at the exit, reducing the unknown for next time I would make the climb. Sometimes the uncertainty makes it certain. The doubt makes no doubt.
Attempt 2
There is no perfect time. Something can always be improved, the conditions, the weather, the gear you have, the preparation. But now is better than never, and I would rather be on the wall trying than waiting for another season. I spent the two days prior to our attempt, prepping my gear and researching the weather and route. Preparing for the fight, and I knew it would be a fight. These climbs don’t come easy to me.
It’s hard to get the conditions right for the North face, if you ask anyone’s opinion about the conditions they’ll most probably say “It’s looking dry.” The webcam gave us some promise but it was more than likely going to be less than ideal conditions.
The winter room was open in the Hornli hut. We climbed the ladder in a shower of water, as the water pipe emptied on top of the ladder. It would at least provide us with some “drain water” to drink tomorrow, though the amount of melting snow on the roof was not a good sign.
After a 2am wakeup we started the traverse across the glacier. Soon we found ourselves under the imposing wall of the North face. Soloing our way up the 300m of 50degree ice until we came to the first pitch. The pitches were simple enough, clearly not in perfect condition but enough to struggle on through. Until the sun grew hotter and the ice became thinner. Clearing the wet snow off slabby rock. Scratching around trying to find purchase with our picks, on what should have been an ice gully. Our feet, hands and clothes drenched in the melting snow as the sun shone down on the supposedly “North face” of the Matterhorn. I had packed my sunglasses away prepared for being in the shadow of the Matterhorn for the next 10 hours. This time of the year the majority of the face catches the morning sun and I was soon wet and burnt. Bailing was an easy decision to make.
Attempt 3
Rob had got in contact trying to find a last minute partner. After the last two attempts the Matterhorn had fallen off my radar for this year, but a wet summer had everyone talking about mixed conditions in the Autumn. Autumn had arrived, Rob was keen and things were lining up; until a freak accident the night before our ascent.
Rob sat on the top bunk prepping his meal. His arm caught a clothes peg on the top of the door before jumping down to the floor. I saw it happen but thought nothing of it, he gripped his arm and I thought maybe he just hit his funny bone. I tend to think the best in situations like this, maybe it’s just me being optimistic, maybe I think people are generally hypochondriacs and I look for affirmation before I jump into action. But the proof soon came. As white as snow Rob opened his tight grip on his forearm. The peg had ripped a chunk of flesh out of his arm, some still sitting on his sleeping bag on the top bunk. I plugged the hole with a tampon and wrapped a bandage around it.
The helicopter was on its way, and soon Rob was hydrated and had some colour back in his face. The red lights blinked in the distance and soon the rotors whipped up a swirl of ice. As I waited for Rob’s surgery I sent a few messages to potential partners. I needed to make the most of these conditions. I would come back in a day’s time with Naoise.
Attempt 4
I had thanked Rob for the motivation to get back on the mountain. With failure comes more motivation. I had fine tuned my gear, timings and plan of attack. I had also climbed with Naoise before, he knew my ability and also I knew how strong he was.
We never planned who would take each pitch, between soloing, block leading and simul climbing we took each pitch as it came. There were 4 teams on the face and after the first team shot up the face the rest of the three including us pretty much climbed amongst each other. Although the route was a little dry the main difference was the lack of loose time consuming snow.
The pitches were never really that hard, just lacking good protection. Route finding was generally simple enough but one pitch caught us out. The traverse after the ramp. The ramp became drier and drier but we needed to climb the full extent of it before traversing right. The traverse reminded me of the brittle ledges on the Eiger, delicate with no protection. This then led to the amazing 80 degree ice pitch; where for the first time I could use the full length of the ice screws without hitting rock!
The route is pretty much over at that point, just laborious boring terrain over easy mixed climbing, finding the path of least resistance until we hit the ridge. Finally a breather in the sunlight before simul climbing to the summit. 10 hours after starting the route. There were very little in the way of congratulations, we were exhausted and now there was the time consuming process of safely getting down the mountain. Safety is often compromised for speed but after so many attempts having finally climbed the north face, I just wanted to get down safely. Efficiency was key, staying focused during what is often considered the most dangerous part of the climb, the descent.
As we made our way down the Hornli ridge the sunset illuminated the face showing us the grandeur of the route. Really putting the route into perspective. With another one finished, I have one more to go. Hopefully by this time next year my 7 year project will be complete. All 6 great north faces climb and BASE jumped.
