The southern gully of Point John is equal in quality and aesthetics to any mountaineering route in my more local playground of Mont Blanc. The fact that it is in equatorial Africa, looking down onto a glacier just adds to this spectacular route.
We started the access from American camp, very basic but beautiful spot located below the south face of the massif. 1- 2 hours of hiking to the start of the climb.
The other option is Austrian camp which is the highest camp on the massif, you would have to walk down to the start of the climb, 30minutes -1 hour.
Approach the start of the climb from the right hand side, avoiding the scree slope. (Blue dots.)
Approach: 1 hour
Gear: 2 x 50m ropes, small rack. Half a rack of nuts and cams should do.
Climb: AD+ / 4c, 5/6 pitches + scramble. Well made anchors for abseil.
Pitch 1, Follow the left hand side of the gully, easy terrain up to anchor. 4a
Pitch 2, 4b
Pitch 3, 4c Follow the blocks up in between the two slabs. Up to anchor on a block
Pitch 4, Very easy slabby terrain anchor on the left
Pitch 5, 4c, a few moves from the belay
Pitch 6, 4b
Scramble up the gully to the summit.
